My New Fascination with Surfing as Spectator

Been reading the book by legendary surfer Phil Edwards:
You Should Have Been Here An Hour Ago - The Stoked Side of Surfing or How To Hang Ten Through Life and Stay Happy (1967). The read does convey how hard it is to learn to stand on a board and surf. I know I'll never really have the opportunity to learn to surf unless I quit my job and we fly off seeking the perfect place to begin (note, sharkless waters) but it's awesome to watch. So many of the great surf points from the past have disappeared and extreme sports have really taken over so it can get uber aggro and annoying to watch nowdays. I prefer to watch huge waves and elegant surfers riding them, rather than a spaz on a small board twisting all over with a leash attached.

Skateboarding just didn't appeal to me. I tried it as a kid for a few days but eh. None of us could get the thing really going so we went back to our bikes. It felt better to have a breeze while peddling away than to stand in the hot Southwest Texas sun waiting to put a foot on the skateboard and trudge slowly down the street. The wheels would make that loud and annoying grinding noise-not the cool even sound you get when you're really skateboarding but that wretched sound from cheap wheels on bad pavement and level ground.

Biking, swimming, rollerskating and even horseback riding was where it was at growing up. Rollerskating was the best. It still is if only I could ever get to the tennis courts when no one is there. Last summer I rollerskated on this outdoor basketball court at night. It's just been too hot this year. Indoor rollerskating is fine but who needs everyone in your way. Horseback riding was iffy but like to try it again. The fun was based on the horse you got. You'd get on a boring Quarter horse and there you are again, trudging along in the hot sun with the odor of manure just under your chin. There were only a few times I was able to get a fast trot out of a horse and the goal was getting him to gallop fast but my friend's parents would never allow that. Too dangerous they'd say so I was given some old walker.

So I can imagine surfing is somewhat like that feeling you got when you were a kid and going uber fast on your bike down a steep hill feeling like you could take off. Actually I did that back in 1995 on a hybrid with bad breaks-no breaks. It's a good thing the light was green when I reached the intersection and could keep going at lightening speed. I was going pretty damn fast and it was scary but I was laughing like a loon the entire time, probably because the light did turn green and I didn't have to deal with injury.

Injury...that is what made me stop the whole rock climbing, spelunking and rapelling sport in my early twenties. I saw too many injuries and thought I'd quit while I was ahead. The fear of injury is what sobers me up. Still, the idea of surfing small waves is so appealing, not thinking of the injury, don't want to read about or realize the injury. Might be too late: note sharks. But it will definitely be a sport I enjoy watching.


Note: Tiger Sharks can be found in shallow waters in places like Cancun!